Toile development

this was my initial toile.

I then met ella and she showed me how she created her toile.

When making this she told me its like making pleats however 9cm is shown and 20cm is hidden. This pannel is also 5m wider that what its being attached to so that it stands off the body. The top is also folded in so that it cannot be seen.

this is my developed toile

I need to press the pleats so thay are more accurate. I also want to make the folded in section deeper so that it cant be seen.